Monday, November 30, 2009

Relecting on the Past Semester in Between Finals

I finally managed to get a picture up on my profile! That is me with the monkey that bit me in Cote d'Ivoire (before it attacked me). I know by this time it is too late to even bother with more pictures since I will be returning home next weekend, but I just thought I would give you a small preview. I apologize once again for the delay in writing, but this week has been so hectic that I am surprised I have even found this short time to post. We are in the midst of final exams and writing our last papers, as well as other projects many of us are involved in like community service, internships, and documentary films. Yesterday I spent the entire day between rehearsal for our dance performance, which was last night, and writing a 10 page paper due today that was not even assigned to us until Monday afternoon. None of us understand how most of these professors expect us to commit so much time to each of their classes, especially when we are in our final days here and want to enjoy Ghana as much as we can before we leave, so forgive me if I sound frustrated at this time. Hopefully by the end of next week when all of my academic work is finished I will have more positive relfections on these classes and the professors. I will say that all of them have been great up until these finals when they suddenly got very strict, and that I enjoyed learning from them throughout the semester, especially the dance instructor who is a well-known choreographer throughout the entire continent of Africa. I hope to get a film of our performance last night from one of my friends, since I think it went very well and was so much fun that I will want to have a visual memory of it forever; plus I want to show it to those of you back home who are interested in seeing a contemporary African dance performance. Our associate director actually arrived too late last night and missed the performance, so she asked us all to reinact it tonight at our Farewell dinner that they are hosting for us at the restaurant where we ate on our first day here, called Headlines Hospitality. Unless we throw a going away party ourselves next week, this will probably be our last gathering of everyone in the program including the staff, which will be both sad and wonderful to celebrate one last time.

My other classes are pretty much over now, except for a 6 page paper I have to write for one of them due next week, and I have to say I enjoyed them but was a little disappointed with the way some of them were carried out. Especially the University of Ghana class- Black Diaspora. First of all, it took about 20 minutes to get there every week, which normally would not have bothered me except for the fact that we had to go there about 3 times the first couple weeks just to register in the class and I had to return another time to get my student ID that was only available on one particular day of the week. Then we had to go to a tutorial to discuss the readings from the lectures, which made sense, but NYU decided that for some reason we needed more credit for this course so they created another recitation that we all had to attend each week for two hours to discuss slavery issues and anything else in Ghana that has impacted us. It was fine at the beginning until we started receiving assigned readings and a presentation at the end that most of us did not have time to coordinate, though we were forced to somehow make time in our schedules. What was most disappointing about the course itself, though, was that the majority of our readings were photocopies from American high school textbooks rather than scholarly articles written in Ghana and we learned more about African Americans than the natives of Africa. Luckily our final was last week, so I never have to return to University of Ghana, although I am a bit nostaligic now since it is a beautiful campus and I spent so much time there this semester.
My Society, Culture, and Modernization class has been fairly easy compared to my others since our papers due every other week have been almost free-writing about certain topics he gives us without any strict guidelines. Our final paper due next week is on any topic of our choice, and I and another student have decided to write about our personal experiences in Ghana and how our views have changed since the beginning of the semester after traveling and meeting more people. It should be the least stressful of all my finals, especially since it will allow me to reflect on my time here in a more concise manner since I have not been able to really do that yet.
Unfortunately my dance class is not yet finished after our performance this week since we also have a written final next week on the differences between the different African dances. We have all agreed that this class has been a bit too demanding for a dance class, since we also had a short paper due a couple weeks ago and practically all of yesterday was devoted to rehearsing. Otherwise, I should have some time next week to do some of the last few things I want to like shop for gifts/souvenirs and spend time with my friends who I will not see nearly as often next year in New York.

Since this may be one of my last posts, I want to quickly mention my trip last weekend before I forget since it was one of my favorites. We went on a four-hour drive to a rural area where the largest waterfall in West Africa lies, called Wli Falls, and hiked through a forest filled with butterflies and wild fruits (pineapples and bananas, though none were ripe enough to pick) to reach the falls. It was beautiful and I took many pictures and even a short video so I can always look back on the experience. We all came in our bathing suits and waded into the water, which was just deep enough for us to swim around, then we swam under the falls themselves for an even more exhilirating experience. I cannot express how I felt standing under there screaming and laughing with my friends; we all agreed that it made us feel like small children again who were stress-free and without any worries at all except for maybe falling on the rocks. I only wish we could have stayed longer.

Okay, that's all for now, but I will hopefully write one more time next week before leaving Ghana to say my final farewells and give one last reflection on my experience here. Ciao for now!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Our Final Weeks...

We have really begun the countdown to our departure from Ghana now with just a little over 4 weeks left. I cannot believe nearly 3 months have gone by since I stepped foot off that plane and entered Africa for the first time, yet here I am. Anxiety is starting to kick in as I realize there is still so much I want to do before I leave and that time with my new friends is now diminishing, as we all know we will not be able to see each other nearly as often in New York next semester. We are all very much looking forward to going home, but I also know that leaving Ghana will be very difficult since it has been the cause of enormous growth in all of us.

I apologize for not updating as often, but the internet connection has actually gotten worse and I have just not had many chances. So you may have to wait to hear about much of what I have left out until I get home, but for now I will just mention the more significant events that have taken place recently or will happen soon. Last weekend we threw a birthday party for one of our group with a plethora of food and dancing, which was a lot of fun and what I hope to do for my own birthday in a few weeks. Then on Sunday night a small group of us went to a new Italian restaurant for dinner called Leonardo da Vinci’s that had amazing service and delicious food (and not just because we miss Italian food). We received a complimentary starter of bruschetta and then all shared an octopus salad and caprese salad before our second course of many pastas. We split a dish of cannelloni with meat sauce, four cheese risotto, and gnocchi with shrimp and tomato sauce that just melted in your mouth. Plus they were constantly replacing our bread that we used for dipping in the sauces, so by the end we were all extremely full. We still managed to each down a cappuccino from a real Itaiian espresso machine, however, which was a wonderful ending to the weekend. I feel only slightly guilty that I spent a couple hours at an Italian restaurant while in Ghana, since I do not feel that I can completely immerse myself in the African culture at every moment of every day or I would go crazy.

Although our long weekend trips are over, we still have couple day trips this semester to some picturesque areas of the southern region of Ghana. This past weekend we took a day trip to Aburi Gardens, a botanical garden a couple hours outside of Accra that is beautiful. It was filled with exotic trees and plants native to Ghana, many of which are used to make herbs and spices that we learned about and got to experiment with. We smelled the bark of a tree where cinnamon comes from as well as the leaves used to make allspice, and then tasted the outside of a cocoa bean (the inside of which is used to make chocolate). After the tour we had the freedom of riding bikes around the park for an hour before eating lunch and heading out to a craft market where we bought some souvenirs. It was a very enjoyable day, and definitely not as exhausting as most of our other trips that required at least a day of travel.
This weekend I am going with one of my classes to a rural village a couple hours east of Accra where the professor grew up to witness the rural life of Ghana. I am very excited since I know it will be a unique experience.

The volunteering at the Autism center is going fairly well, by the way, though I am a little frustrated with the attitudes of some of the staff. Many of them are not very friendly to me unless they need me to do something and they will often ignore certain children that get violent and start running around uncontrollably. I have not been trained in how to deal with this behavior so I know that I cannot do anything to help control them, but I wish the staff members who obviously do this for a living would make more of an effort to teach these children that it is wrong to hurt themselves and others. Otherwise, I do enjoy having some of the children come up to me and just lightly touch me out of curiosity or give me a hug in affection, which makes my going there worth it in the end. I am not doing anything of great significance for the center, but I am spending some of my free time just sitting and coloring with these children that often do not receive any other love or affection from family or the rest of the community. It is rewarding enough to know that my time with them is appreciated.

Today is registration day for next semester, and everyone here is even more stressed than usual since we are unsure whether or not the internet will be working at the time we all need it. I am still finalizing what classes I want to take, but I am pretty sure they will all be for my major and minor, which are Anthropology and Psychology respectively. My choices for now are Anthropology of Language, Anthropology of Science, Medical Anthropology, and Cognitive Neuroscience, though I am trying to find a way to change one of the Anthropology classes to a Psychology class that fits in my schedule so I am not taking too many scientific classes. They all sound very interesting, though, so I will let you know once I have made my final decisions and am safely registered.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

A Spirtual Journey

I realize that I have not posted in awhile, but it has gotten increasingly difficult to take the time to sit down and write these past few weeks with all my activities and the internet not functioning often. In fact, I have not used the internet much at all except to check and respond to emails since that is my first priority, and it is actually very refreshing. I like not being dependent on it all the time and being forced to find other ways to occupy my time such as going out to a market, reading and drawing, or spending quality time with my new friends cooking, watching movies, or just talking. I am definitely learning to better appreciate the most important aspects of life; the things that make me happy.

This past weekend was probably the most amazing experience I have had since being in Ghana thus far, though I am afraid that once again I will be unable to explicitly describe how it has affected me since I am still trying to figure that out myself. I just know that my spiritual and belief systems have shifted greatly and that I feel much more inspired to make a positive impact on the world before I die. We took a 12 hour bus ride to a town in Northern Ghana called Tamale that was actually very different culturally than the southern region where we live. I won’t go into details, but I found the people to be less obtrusive and more genuinely friendly while in Accra they only seem interested in us because we are foreigners and can offer them opportunities and large amounts of money according to their conceptions. We left Accra at 4:30am Thursday morning and arrived in Kumasi 5-6 hours later for our halfway stop to stretch, use the restroom, and get some snacks before continuing up another 6 hours to Tamale where we arrived at about 5pm. The women at the guesthouse where we stayed had prepared us a simple meal of pasta with tomato sauce when once we rested about an hour in our rooms, which was a very nice change from jollof rice and plaintains that are always served here in Accra. The next morning we woke early for a breakfast of warm baguettes and then went to a Muslim mosque where we were given a tour and had the opportunity to ask about the customs of Muslims in Ghana, which was very interesting. After that we went to a medical clinic started by this doctor who was the only surviving child of a very poor family and had the most inspiring personality and philosophies on life. Just listening to him speak about how he loves helping the homeless (who are typically shunned in Ghanaian society and thought to be “mad”) and how he relies on the charity of others for his funding rather than asking for money from those who are not willing to give it. He also explained how he feels all religions are related and have common beliefs, which after thinking about it myself, I also think is very true. I cannot explain everything he said or how he said it, but he was the most genuinely selfless and happy person I have ever met and was an inspiration to all of us. Whenever I start to lose faith in humanity, I will always think of him and remember that those types of people actually do exist in this world.

After that emotional and spiritual activity, we went in three different groups to visit Diviners, which are like psychics or fortune tellers, but much more respected here in Ghana. Each person in my group of 10 was “divined” separately, yet most of us received similar fortunes and advice that could either be very vague or very specific but not be attributable to that particular person. For example, Daniella was told that she would fall in love with an African American man when she returns to the U.S. and move with him to another state, when anyone who knows her well enough is certain that she will never leave New York, especially for another person since she is very independent. I was basically told that I am very healthy and will live a long time, but that I worry too much and it is affecting my studies. However, everything will turn out well as long as I pray and perform this ritual he described for me: I have to find five different grains (rice, corn, etc.), four cocoa nuts, a piece of cloth, and some mutton and give it to a pair of twins. I had some trouble trying not to laugh as I was told this, especially since the translator who transmitted the information to me did not believe in anything the Diviner was saying and basically spit it out at me quickly as though it had no value. That definitely ruined the experience for all of us, so we exchanged stories afterward and had our laughs then. It was an interesting experience, even if I felt it was a waste of time, because those spiritual men are so highly regarded in this society and a major part of the culture in Ghana.

The next day we took a 2 hour bus ride east of Tamale to a slave camp where many slaves were captured by different African tribes before being transported down to the coast. It was a very emotional experience looking at the beautiful landscape and imagining all the horrible things that happened there, especially since it was extremely hot and humid as well. I do not feel like delving into my feelings on this topic at the moment, since it is still fresh in my mind and very sensitive, but at some point I would like to tell all of you about it who may never get a chance to come here and experience it yourselves. We then took a trip out to a rural village where a group of widows (who are very badly treated in Ghana because they are usually thought to have murdered their husbands) get together to weave baskets and fans and other beautiful objects in order to make money and help raise their children. They were all extremely friendly and lovely women, and it was wonderful to spend time with them and their children as we know that they receive very little generosity elsewhere. We all purchased some things from them and then made our way back to Tamale for the night where we brooded over the fact that it was Halloween and we were missing it entirely. A member of our group did perform a ghost story on the spot for many of us that did scare us quite a bit, but that was the extent of our Halloween celebration this year. We are hoping to celebrate some more this week by watching scary movies and making candy (since most American candy is not available here), but otherwise we will just have to live without a major holiday for one year.

On Sunday we left again at 4:30am and arrived back in Accra before 5pm, which was surprisingly nice, so many of us just relaxed before going out to dinner since we did not have much food to make at home. I went with Daniella and a now good friend Joey to an Italian restaurant called Leonardo da Vinci’s, which was a wonderful experience after not having gone to a good restaurant in a long time. The service was great and our pasta dish that we ordered was delicious, plus we were given bread and bruschetta free of charge when we sat down. The three of us are hoping to go back there again soon, since it was almost like being back in Italy but without even leaving Africa.

This weekend we are throwing a big birthday party for a member of our group, which should be very fun and a nice break from all this traveling. Otherwise, I am just keeping busy with my classes and volunteering and spending time with my wonderful new friends here, so there is not much else to tell for now.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Monkey Bite; my experience in Cote d'Ivoire

There is so much to say about this past week, yet I have no words to describe my experience in Cote d’Ivoire. You will all have to bear with me as I attempt to explain everything that happened without exposing how jumbled my thoughts and feelings are at this moment. I am sure that I will not be able to appreciate it all to the extent that it should be recognized as a pivotal experience in my life until much later, for now I will simply give you most of the details as they occurred consecutively.

First I will mention that the night before we left for our trip without much information about where we were staying or what we were going to do, the six of us were put in touch with the owners of one of our meal plan restaurants that happened to be from Cote d’Ivoire. We were only hoping to receive more detailed information about things to do and were pleasantly surprised to have them offer to contact their relatives back home that could provide a place for us to stay in the capital city of Abidjan. We were given contact information so that once we arrived, they would pick us up at the bus station, which was also very comforting. So that night we got a few hours of sleep before heading to the bus station at 3:00am for our 4:00am bus that would arrive in Abidjan at about 6:00pm, though unfortunately we did not leave until after 5:00am and arrive until close to 8:00pm. While the bus ride was excruciatingly long compared to road trips I have been on before, it helped that I was exhausted from lack of sleep and dozed most of the trip. However, once we landed in Abidjan, we waited about 20 minutes before being met by a couple members of our host family who escorted us back to the two separate houses we would be staying in the first couple nights (3 of us in one and 3 in the other). They chatted with us for awhile in French (a couple girls in the group had to translate for the rest of us who do not speak the language) and very graciously provided us with ice cold drinks and then a large meal before sending us off to bed.

The next morning, they brought us along to church with them, which was very interesting because the service was in French and included African gospel singers so although I could not understand exactly what has happening or being said, I felt like I experienced a great mixture of French-Afircan culture. When we returned home, a light lunch was presented to us by the family and we spent relaxing time around the house until they took us to another home of one of the family members where dinner was again made for us and we spent more quality time with locals.

To express our gratitude for everything they were doing for us, the six of us decided to cook dinner for our host family the next day that included some of our signature dishes. We made a trip to the supermarket where we discovered a large selection of cheese, which we had all been missing greatly since it is an expensive luxury in Accra, so we based our decisions on what to make on that as a main ingredient. Our meal consisted of an onion and goat cheese tart, roasted eggplant and tomato with herbs, pasta with vegetables, chicken, and gorgonzola cheese, and chocolate mousse for dessert. The family loved it all, as did we, though we almost regretted it the next morning when we all woke up a bit sick from eating so much of what our bodies had not consumed since we came to Ghana. I ignorantly made the decision that night as well to eat the chicken when I had not touched meat in two months, so unfortunately I woke very early to throw up and ended up feeling nauseous the entire day. Luckily our only plan for the day was to go to the beach in a town less than an hour away called Grand Basam, so I accompanied the group to a beach house the family had there and slept inside all day while the rest of them went out to the beach. Due to my inability to do anything other than sleep, that day is pretty much a blur to me now. We did stay the night, however, so the next morning I woke feeling very refreshed and was able to join the others to the beach this time where we spent hours chatting, reading, playing in the water, an taking pictures. It was definitely a nice respite after feeling so awful the day before, though I have to admit that I did feel very taken care of since the family constantly checked on me and gave me medicine. After that, however, I barely ate anything the rest of my time there except bread and crackers because I started to feel nauseous anytime I smelled or looked at food they made us which I still do not know the reason for except that my body must not be used to the ingredients and flavors. That night we returned to Abidjan to eat and sleep before waking early the next morning for a full day of activities.

On Thursday, we did a few errands in the morning like getting money from the bank and buying bus tickets for our ride home the next day before visiting a cathedral where a few of us had emotional moments. After we gathered ourselves together, we left and went to a local zoo, about which I am still trying to understand my feelings. It was different than any zoo I have visited in the United States in that it seemed very disorganized and the animals not well cared for; a few monkeys roamed free from cages and a few were solitarily confined to a tiny cell where they had no room to expel their energy. I had to look away from the lions after a couple minutes because their skinny, underfed bodies made me almost sick to my stomach as I tried to understand why they were treated this way. The boys in our host family (Jean-Claude and Paulin) did not seem to share the depression most of us felt and simply threw pieces of banana through the bars to the different animals as though that would make up for their maltreatment each day. And as a side note, I just want to mention that one of the small monkeys that was roaming around the entrance actually bit me and the men working there who witnessed it did nothing. I was told that the monkey was vaccinated and I would be fine, but I could not help but worry when my wound started to puff and bruise, which it still looks like now. I am perfectly fine, but am still in shock that I would attacked by an animal in a zoo of all places and simply look back on the moment in a humorous light. After that trip, we were taken to a rural village in another section of the town where we were given food and played music on drums that we danced to for a short time. It was a lot of fun, though most of us were not feeling well, so we left early and stopped at the supermarket once more to buy a few gifts for our host family as well as some souvenirs for the bus ride the next day (cheese and baguettes). That bus ride seemed even longer than the first because I was getting anxious to be back in Accra and was very nauseous once again, so when we did arrive I went straight up to my bed with nothing but hot tea in my stomach.

Yesterday and today I have been spending inside recovering and exchanging stories with everyone else in the dorm who traveled to other places like Togo to the east of Ghana and some beaches within Ghana. No one this semester was able to leave West Africa due to the expense, but most people had interesting experiences anyway and we all agree that we prefer Ghana to the surrounding countries. I will try to reflect more in my next post, but for now I just want to let you know that I am safe and sound back in Accra and that I had a very unique experience this past week; whether it impacted me in a positive or negative way I am still unsure, but I know that I have definitely learned much about myself that I either was unable to see or just refused to acknowledge before.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Change in fall break trip plans...

Well, it turns out that the visa to get into Burkina Faso costs around 100 U.S. dollars, more or less depending on what they want to charge you at the border, so most of us had to rule that country out since it is so expensive. Instead a small group of us have decided to travel west to Cote d'Ivoire, which I'm sure many people have heard is relatively unstable right now due to conflicts with the political system. However, it should be safe enough for us to get to the capital city of Abidjan, which is about an 8 hour drive from Accra, and stay there a few days. I am not entirely sure what else we are doing in the country, since we have not all come together and discussed it yet, but from what I have researched it looks very interesting and different. We applied for a visa a few days ago, which will be ready tomorrow, and we are planning to leave Saturday around 3am so we are traveling during the day and arrive by the evening instead of traveling overnight. When we return to Ghana, we are hoping to travel up north to Mole National Park where we can see wildlife like elephants and baboons as well as other monkeys, though it will be another long trip getting up there. I can already tell that this break will be fairly stressful and time consuming, but it will definitely be an adventure and will force me out of my comfort zone, which is all a part of the experience.

I will update again when we return in a little over a week, so wish me luck!

Friday, October 2, 2009

Fall break trip plans

I’m sorry it has been so long since my last post, but I did not have anything major to talk about since last week. Last weekend was pretty uneventful except for our large group outing to a sushi restaurant called Monsoon on Saturday night. The food was surprisingly good (Daniella and I shared vegetable tempura, spicy tuna roll, and a platter of mixed salmon and tuna sashimi and rolls), and not ridiculously expensive like we were expecting. Most dishes were between 9 and 16 cedis (probably about 5 to 12 U.S. dollars), so we did not feel too guilty ordering a lot of food. We needed a night to splurge on good food anyway, since most of us are growing tired of eating rice, plantains, and mixed vegetables nearly everyday. A few of us have decided to go there at least once every couple weeks, if not every week, to share a couple appetizers and have a drink in the very nice lounge they also happen to have. I forgot to mention that before we left the restaurant, after someone complained to the manager about an extra charge on the bill, we each received a free shot of B52, which I found surprisingly good. Most of you know that I am not a huge fan of alcohol, but this was very sweet (a mixture of Bailey’s and Kahlua), so I was even hoping for another one after I finished it. I think I have finally found my drink, strangely enough, in Africa.

Speaking of discovering things here, we had a very interesting discussion last night about racial differences among our group that allowed us to all evaluate our experiences here so far. Many of us have realized that being here as a minority for the first time has made us self-reflect much more and get more in touch with parts of ourselves that we may have overlooked while in the U.S. For example, a girl from a Jewish family spoke about how she feels much more Jewish being here in a predominately Christian country where she has to search for others with whom to share the holidays and traditions. It was nice to be so open about our races as well, since my experience in the U.S. is that it would be awkward to approach the subject with someone of a different race that may be sensitive about it. We did point out that coming here to Ghana in the first place was to leave our comfort zone, so why not talk about a subject we would normally be too nervous to discuss since it is on all our minds everyday? I for one definitely feel much more aware of my skin color and my background when I walk outside everyday, and am always wondering whether the African-Americans in our group feel the same way or have more a sense of belonging. What surprised me was that each one of them actually feels very differently, as do many of us with lighter skin, which made us realize that our experience here is very much shaped by our personal experiences back in the U.S. and our views of the world.

This weekend we have another two day trip; though this time it is to another large city called Kumasi about 6 hours north of Accra. It apparently is famous for its enormous market (the largest in west Africa), so we are advised to bring money for souvenirs and whatever else we find interesting. I will put the full itinerary in a separate post since it takes up a lot of room, but I will mention that we have to leave by 5am tomorrow morning since it is such a long trip and the traffic can get horrendous. I am not as excited for this trip as I was for the last one, since we are going to another big city that will probably also be very westernized and modern, but it should be nice to see another area of Ghana. Speaking of traveling, we are all pretty frantic about figuring out our plans for fall break, since it is very difficult deciding where to go that will not be expensive or difficult to get to. Daniella, Ivy, and I spoke with Christa, the associate director of NYU in Ghana, today about ideas of where to go and have basically decided to take a bus up to Burkina Faso right above Ghana. From what we have heard and read about the country, it sounds like a great choice since it is one of the safest countries in west Africa and has a lot of natural beauty and wildlife. I personally want to see as much African wildlife as possible, so I am in charge of researching game reserves up there while Daniella and Ivy figure out most of the transportation and visa fees. I will help with that too of course, but it just makes it easier when we all have separate jobs to worry about. We may be joined as well by a girl in the other dorm named Caitlin who I am slowly getting to know better, which will be nice since it will give us a chance to bond more. Traveling is by far the best way to get to know someone in my opinion; that’s how I learned to love Daniella in Florence after all. We will keep researching next week, so I will let you know our final decisions when we make them.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Re-evaluating Africa and Becoming Acclimated

Although I have not had the most exciting last couple weeks in terms of being productive and exploring the country, I am starting to feel more at home here in Accra. Of course I am not entirely comfortable with walking around alone and finding my way to and from many areas of the town, but I am beginning to better understand how the people here live and why. It is difficult to explain to someone who has never been here, since many of the realizations I have come to have been only through seeing things with my own eyes. Yet I will say that the history of the slave trade has definitely impacted the way of life in this entire country and the ones surrounding it in ways that I had never known. Learning about slavery in the United States has been a totally different experience than seeing where it began here in Africa, especially since in America we always focused more on slavery in America rather than the slave trade itself. All we knew was that slaves were taken from the west coast of Africa, but we did not delve into why they were traded and how they were so easily captured. I did not know that when the trans-Atlantic slave trade began, Africa pretty much did not exist— it was instead composed of different tribes that were not connected to one another whatsoever. So African chiefs were not ashamed to sell the captured prisoners from other tribes to the European traders that arrived with stronger weapons and different variety of food. There were no African nations; the borders were determined later by the Europeans when they established their presence here and fought for control. Even today, the city of Accra is divided into sections with different tribes who speak totally different languages and have various cultural practices and beliefs. They are only grouped into one city according to foreigners, yet many people here will call themselves Akan or Ewe (two of the main tribes) instead of Ghanaian. National pride is growing, of course, since Ghana achieved its independence, but the majority of its people do not understand the concept of a nation. This is only the surface of much of what I have learned thus far, but I just thought I would share some of it with most of you who I’m sure did not know any of this either. Sometimes I am very disappointed with American education; it is so centered on the U.S. and often fails to expose us to important facts about the rest of the world, especially those it does not consider a threat.

This last weekend many people participated in a homestay with a local Ghanaian family, though I chose not to take part since I was not comfortable with the idea of spending three days with a strange family alone. However, I did discover afterward that some people were placed in groups with small, wealthy families, so it was not a very uncomfortable experience at all. We have another opportunity to do it in November, so I am planning to participate that weekend. But this weekend did not go to waste, since many others who did not do the homestay came over Saturday night and we all cooked a large dinner together. We made pasta alla norma (rigatoni with tomato sauce and roasted eggplant), breadsticks (my mom’s famous recipe), stir-fry noodles with vegetables, french fries, french toast, chocolate chip cookie dough, and an apple pie. Everything was from scratch, of course, and turned out delicious. Someone brought wine as well, so we all (about 10 of us) sat down to eat and chat together for a long time, which was a lot of fun. We have decided to do this at least once a month, and I think are doing it again this coming weekend since everyone will be around and it is the only free weekend for the next few weeks. I’ve never had this many friends that love to cook, even if only a little, so I am ecstatic to have nights like that to look forward to. We have also decided to have a huge Halloween party, but I will keep you updated on that as it gets closer.

I want to mention once again how much I love my new friends here. I love that there is always someone here to talk to or hang out with when I make lunch or just walk into another room. I can find time to be alone, of course, which I did last night when I chose to not attend dinner and instead stay home and make myself something, but I never get lonely. We all have similar interests and can always find a movie to watch or something to chat about, yet we also have our own personal interests and reasons for being here that make us unique. Almost every night a few of us will gather in someone’s room coincidentally and end up talking for awhile or will happen upon each other eating downstairs and join them until a bunch of us are laughing and telling stories all night. It is definitely more difficult to have independent lives here than in New York, since most places we have to go in pairs or groups to be safe and avoid extra attention while the opposite is true in the city. We are not accustomed to having so much extra time either (without internet I might add), so we spend it together since it makes more sense than sitting alone in our rooms doing nothing. Watching movies together has become a normal routine every week, sometimes a few days in a row. But don’t get the impression that we sit around watching movies all the time and don’t find other ways to spend our time more valuably; in fact, we go on outings to the markets fairly often to purchase food, jewelery, fabric, and other souvenirs and do homework and volunteering. Most of us have chosen to volunteer at different organizations, though some are in groups of three or four, and we have only begun to determine our schedules. I think I mentioned before that I will hopefully be going to the Autism Awareness Center every Thursday (and possibly Friday) for the whole day since it would be easier than going for a few hours in between classes on other days. I only have classes Monday through Wednesday, since each one meets only once a week for two to three hours at a time, so I have the whole weekend free to do what I want. I can only volunteer during the week since that is when the children are at the center, but most weekends NYU has something planned for us so I will not get bored.

Anyway, that’s pretty much what has been happening lately; I’ll let you know when something else exciting comes up, but for now I wanted you to know that I am getting myself acclimated to living here and falling into a more comfortable routine.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Happy Birthday, Dad!

I forgot to mention in the earlier post, but I wanted to wish a very happy birthday to my father who is one of the most important people to me in my life. I am always thinking of you, especially when I get frustrated and feel as though I cannot live here anymore and want to simply return home, because instead of encouraging these ideas you remind me that these feelings are normal for adjusting to being away from home; much more for living in a third-world country. You give me courage and strength when I need it most, and your faith and confidence in me to succeed in whatever I choose to pursue means more to me than you can imagine. I would not be here if it were not for your love and guidance over the years, especially in helping me decide where to attend school because if it had been up to just me I would have stayed close to home and not had the amazing experiences that I have. I apologize for any worries I may have given you, since I know you do so much for the the whole family and would lay down your life for us if you had to, and I want you to know on this day that I love you and miss you very much.

Trip details!

I don't have too much to say at this point, but I have an hour to kill as I wait to visit the Autism center where I plan to volunteer, so I thought I would write a new post and tell you a bit about the trip last weekend. I have felt the past few days like I am in the hostile phase again (according to the emotional stages they said we would probably experience while here: happy and energetic because everything is new and exciting, then hostile because we are frustrated or homesick, then comfortable because this becomes our new home - these are not the exact descriptions they gave, but close enough) since I am finding it difficult to maintain patience all the time, especially when I just want to get things done. For instance, I was told to meet with the community service representative this morning at 10am to leave for the Autism center, so I had to leave my music and dance class early (since it is from 8-11am) to get here, but when I arrived he said we would need to wait until 11am instead. So I walked back to my dorm and had a snack and read my book, then came back and was told that I have to wait another hour before we can leave. I am not even sure what the reason is for the delay, which is even more frustrating, so I am wondering now if we will even go at all.

Well, I guess you're waiting to hear about this past weekend, so I will finally indulge you. We pretty much followed the schedule I posted last week exactly, though we were maybe an hour or two behind at some parts. In any case, it was an amazing trip that I will not soon forget. The slave castle made me very emotional, and I know many others as well, since I have a hard time imagining such cruel things being done to innocent people, especially in such great numbers. I almost felt sick at some of the descriptions the tour guide gave, and was disgusted at the images that formed in my head as I viewed where it all happened. As much as I love visiting historical monuments and improving my knowledge of them, I hope to not visit another slave castle any time soon because it makes me ashamed to even be human.

After that traumatic experience, we went to Hans Cottage, which is famous for being built on stilts over a pond of crocodiles. We were not there very long, since it was just a short stop to have some drinks, but we did see quite a few crocodiles either swimming or lying on the land resting and were able to get fairly close without fear of being attacked. After that we drove to Kakum National Park, which was my favorite part of the trip, since it was a rainforest where we had the chance to walk across these 7 canopies connected by trees and rope through the forest. We did not see any wildlife other than butterflies, but we were told that forest elephants and monkeys lived within the forest somewhere and could be seen if you stayed the night and camped out in the park (which we unfortunately did not have a chance to do). However, the canopy walk itself was very exhilarating, especially if you are somewhat afraid of heights and wobbly bridges, and made me feel as though I was in an Indiana Jones movie or some sort of wild adventure. Hence the name of my blog...

That night we had traditional Ghanaian food at tables right next to the beach, and then a bonfire was made for us to sit around as we enjoyed the calming waves and fresh air. The next morning we had another large breakfast buffet (omelets, beans, crepes, croissants, bread and jam, cereal, oatmeal, tea, coffee, juice), which filled us up enough to not need much food until dinner, since we had another 4-5 hour drive home that afternoon. We had the chance to go into Cape Coast to visit the slave castle and the town, though most of us were too exhausted and decided instead to relax on the beach since the weather was so nice and we did not want to pass up an opportunity to utilize a clean beach resort. I am glad we got that time because the ride home was pretty invigorating- people having loud conversations about topics I am sick of discussing (like Michael Jackson), and drinking a bit too much- which makes me wonder how we are going to survive the 12 hour drive to northern Ghana at the end of the semester. Well, I guess I can say it was entertaining, but after being so used to living alone most of the time I was relishing the moment I would go home to my room and escape the large group of people I had just spent the entire weekend with.

This coming weekend many people are doing homestays with local Ghanaian families, but I do not feel ready to live with a strange family for three days at this point in time, so I am opting out with a bunch of other people who are instead going to a Ramadan festival outside of city. I am considering going to that as well, since I have heard that it is a huge deal here and a lot of fun, and it will be nice to get out of the city again and see more of rural Africa. I just hope it is not too far away, or very expensive. I will let you know my final decisions about that later, but for now I will leave you to take in what I have told you so far since I am still trying to grasp it myself. I do not believe I will realize I have lived in Africa until I am back in the United States and have had time to really mull things over and understand all the feelings and adventures I am experiencing.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Weekend trip itinerary

Okay, everyone, here’s the itinerary for this weekend:

Saturday, Semptember 12, 2009
6:30am Depart for Cape Coast/Elmina at 6:30am sharp
(Solomon’s Lodge residents will be picked up at 6:20am)
9:00am Arrive in Elmina, check in to Coconut Grove Beach
Resort and eat brunch by the beach.
10:30am Depart Coconut Grove for Elmina Slave Castle
11:00am-1:00pm Tour UNESCO World Heritage site, Elmina Slave Castle
1:00pm Depart Elmina Castle for Hans Cottage, a famous
restaurant built on stilts over a pond of crocodiles
1:30-2:15pm Rest stop for drinks/refreshments at Hans Cottage (lunch
will not be served so suggested to bring packed lunch, snacks,
etc. for road)
2:15pm Depart Hans Cottage for Kakum National Park
2:45-4:45pm Visit Kakum National Park and cross renowned canopy
walkway
4:45pm Depart Kakum for Coconut Grove
5:45-7:00pm Rest, play volleyball, enjoy the beach, pool, etc.
7:30pm Dinner on the beach with bonfire and sample traditional
palm wine
Free evening

Sunday, September 13, 2009
7:30-9:30am Breakfast at hotel
9:30am-1:00pm Free time (Bus will be available to go to Cape Coast to visit
Cape Coast Castle, explore Cape Coast town, eat lunch, etc.
Suggested to pick up lunch for the return trip to Accra)
1:30pm Check out of hotel and depart for Accra
4:00pm Estimated arrival time in Accra

Does this sound amazing or what? We are all so excited and cannot stop talking about the trip since we received this schedule last night. Don’t worry, I will try to take as many pictures as possible.

Except for the fact that I have to write two short papers for classes next week, I have been much happier lately. I am finally starting to feel normal and can exercise my body more; I am planning to join Daniella and others in yoga at least a few times a week, if not everyday, since it makes me feel so open and flexible and ready for the day. Tonight all the girls are coming over to Solomon’s for a movie night where we will watch Mulan and eat a bunch of food that people are making. We’re hoping to make this a weekly activity, which I am excited about since I love movie nights.

The only bad news is that lately a lot of people have been getting sick and going to the hospital, though most of them have been due to food poisoning. One girl that is there now actually tested positive for malaria, though since they found it so early they have been able to treat it quickly before it gets worse. As everyone has been saying, it would be much better to get malaria here in Ghana than in the United States because they are better prepared for it here and know exactly how to treat it whereas in the States it is much less common. I just really hope I never get it, since I am through with being sick.

Oh, I also forgot to mention that I have been very sunburned and tan already, since the sun is so much stronger here and my sunscreen only lasts a couple hours before I have to reapply it. Most of you probably won’t even recognize me when I get back in December!

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Finally in Africa

After three weeks of living here in Ghana, I haven't felt like I've really seen Africa until recently. There were a few days at the beginning where I noticed the way people carry themselves here that definitely differs from the U.S., and other aspects of the culture that I am unfamiliar with, but I still felt very sheltered by NYU with vans driving us everywhere and someone accompanying us everywhere we go. Now we have more freedom to explore on our own and see more of the city, and even other towns as some people have already done. Yesterday the former mayor took our Global Connections class on a short tour of parts of the city where slavery was very prominent. Another professor gave us the history as he showed us where slaves were kept after being captured and transported here from all over Africa, and then where they were forced to march down to the shore where the ships awaited to take them towards America. I was speechless the entire time, imagining the horrific circumstances back then, but it was interesting to see how the area has changed over time. People still live in these homes where slaves were trapped a couple hundred years ago, and children roam the beach as though no tragedy had occured there. While most Africans tend to avoid speaking about slavery, since it is definitely a very sensitive subject for them, it is interesting that they do not stay away from where much of the trading took place.

Today I accompanied my roommate Sarah and another friend named Alex to a beach in Jamestown (which is known as a sketchy area of Accra, though I did not feel uncomfortable there) where we met with the organizers of a new program to educate children in Ghana. The leader, another girl named Sarah who studied in Ghana a few semesters ago and just graduated from NYU last spring, came here to start this organization that imports books from the U.S. to use with Ghanaian children in after-school sessions so they can become better educated. I greatly admire that she took the initiative to start this organization herself (and with some others who are in NY), so I went today to find out more about it and perhaps help out during the semester. We ended up meeting most of the children (close to 100 of them!) and playing with them for a couple hours, which made me feel again like I was really in Africa. They tugged on me, poked me, held my hands, as though they had never seen anyone with light skin before. They were mesmerized by all of us and insisted on playing games with us and teaching us phrases and words in their language, teasing us when we messed up. It just made me realize the difference in attitudes toward races; in the U.S., historically people of darker skin were feared or avoided, whereas here those of light skin are admired and objects of fascination. Wouldn't the history of slavery have made these attitudes opposites? I find myself wondering. In any case, I am looking forward to spending more time with children, especially meeting the ones at the autism center where I am hoping to volunteer soon.

I forgot to mention that this past weekend I got pretty sick again- a 101 degree fever on Sunday. I am unsure of what happened, though the nurse seemed sure that it was from some food I ate, or water; there is bacteria in almost everything here so it is not difficult to get sick from something. Nearly everyone has in some form or another, so I at least don't feel alone. I took some medicine and rested in bed all day and by yesterday was pretty much recovered. I was still pretty weak yesterday, especially after getting up early to take an exam at Legon (which I unfortunately could not miss), but by dinner finally had an appetite again. You'll never guess what they had for dessert, which totally made my night- chocolate mousse! I had actually been wanting to make it the weekend before, but since I got sick I couldn't, so what a surprise it was to have it at Tante Marie where we usually only get either fruit or ice cream. Plus for the regular meal they had roast potatoes instead of plantains which made me so happy; I have definitely been missing potatoes and hope that they are served more often. Oh, and I forgot to mention that my angel of a friend Daniella gave me a few bites of her roasted eggplant Sunday night (knowing that it is one of my favorite foods), so that helped me feel much better. Tonight at Sunshine Salads they are actually serving vegetable lasagne, which most of us are very excited about, since we don't get pasta very often either. Ah, it's so nice to have my appetite back again! Just in case you're interested, Daniella and I are planning to make a charred tomato bisque in a few days (recipe courtesy of Mark Bittman's cookbook that I brought with me) and I'm hoping to make my mom's breadstick recipe if I can manage to find yeast somewhere. :)

Oh, and about the party Friday night, there were a lot of people (mostly men) from the University of Ghana and other places where NYU students had met them who came and mingled with us. At first we all stayed kind of segregated with NYU students in one group and Ghanaians in other small groups, but after awhile people started dancing (we had a couple DJ's blasting music) and then getting more comfortable chatting together. A couple hours after it began, the acrobats performed for us (I wish I had taken pictures, but you'll just have to take my word that they were pretty exciting to watch) and then the CRA's revealed a cake welcoming us to Ghana that we all had some bites of. It ended around 11:30, though it was supposed to go until midnight, but I was relieved because I was exhausted from dancing and not feeling well most of the week.

I am very excited for this weekend because we're going on our first field trip out of Accra to Cape Coast, where the bulk of the slave trading took place. It takes between 2 and 5 hours to get there, depending on traffic, so we're staying the night in a hotel on the beach that NYU arranged for us (how spoiled we are, hehe). I don't have the itinerary yet, but I from what I hear we're leaving about 6am Saturday morning and spending the day taking a tour of the slave castles and doing a canopy walk in Kakum National Park. Then Sunday morning we have time to either relax on the beach or go into town to shop and look around until 1pm when we drive back. I will give you more information about it once I know more; if I don't get a chance to update before then, you'll just have to hear about it when I get back.

I think that's all for now; except that internet has been working for a few hours, woohoo! Let's hope this lasts..

Friday, September 4, 2009

Internet again!!

I know it has been a long time, but as I mentioned last time the internet has not been working well here and in fact we have not had any in our dorm since last Friday. I actually wrote this post yesterday but have not been able to post until now...

Not too much has been happening lately except the finalization of our class choices and many people getting a little sick; a friend next door had to go to the hospital two days ago after throwing up 7 times from some bacteria in her system. She is much better today, though still a little feverish, but otherwise the rest of us have just been getting colds or upset stomachs.

Tonight we have a “social mixer” at our dorm with everyone in our program as well as others people have invited from around the city. It should be fun with a lot of people, many whom we won’t even know, but I don’t know what will be provided except drinks and maybe music. I’ve been hearing rumors about entertainment like acrobats, but I will let you know later on if that turns out to be true.

Last Sunday night Daniella and I cooked a potato gratin and corn salsa for dinner, which both turned out very good (although the canned corn she bought turned out to be mashed up instead of in kernels), and sat down with some other friends that cooked to chat and enjoy our food together. It was a nice reminder of home, since I definitely miss cooking for myself and with Daniella, and it was also nice to have others compliment our food as well. However, less than an hour later, as I was chatting with my parents in the other room, I heard an explosion from the kitchen and someone scream, though at first I thought she had just dropped some pans or something. However, a bunch of people ran over looking worried, so I joined them to discover that one of our ovens had basically exploded when one of the girls tried to light it. The gas had apparently been on for awhile, which she did not realize until afterward, and when she went to light it the oven caught fire and blew itself out of the wall, giving her some burns on her legs and in her socks (which she luckily had on). Otherwise she was perfectly fine, just a little in shock, but that definitely taught us all to be extra cautious about turning off the gas and electricity when we are finished with it. That is probably one of the major stories we will all remember from our dorm, though of course we still have a few more months to create even more.

I must admit that this past weekend I went through a period of severe homesickness, since it was frustrating not being able to talk to my parents without the internet or have the same comforts I do at home like certain foods, technology, my friends, and my cats. Many others have been feeling the same way though, so it has made it easier being able to connect with them in that way and know that we are not alone. There is a fantastic group of people here, and I feel very lucky to have them around me since they are all very understanding and caring when someone is feeling under the weather, or just needs to talk. I am lucky once again for my amazing roommate, Sarah, who has so much in common with me and has helped me through many decisions I have needed to make here, listening and giving advice when necessary. These people have made me realize as well that these feelings are normal and just part of the challenge of living in a foreign place, which I chose to overcome on my own and help myself grow into a more well-rounded person. I know it can only happen by experiencing the good and bad, since it would be impossible to delve into a new culture without getting frustrated at least once or twice.

I have been enjoying most of our meals at the restaurants, though by now I much prefer Sunshine Salads, where we go Tuesday and Thursday, since it serves more international food like Italian, Indian, Greek, etc. Tante Marie can be very tasty, especially the fried plantains and usually the vegetables and rice, yet I think I am getting tired of having the same cuisine three times a week. I am more accustomed to variety, since at home my family tends to cook something totally different every night, so I’m not sure I can get used to eating rice and plantains as often as they do here in Ghana, as much as I may like them. At least we are provided with food five days a week, which I definitely cannot complain about, since buying enough food to cook every night would get very expensive. I still have not tried any of the other restaurants, though I hear the Chinese food (which is most abundant) is pretty good, as well as a few Indian restaurants. They even have sushi here somewhere, so I will let you know when I test that out.

As for classes, I have decided to drop the Twi language class since I just felt it was too much and that it would not be entirely worth it in the end. I am happy just to learn a few words and phrases to get around and make people smile, since although most of them do understand and speak this language, there are over 40 others just within this country that are entirely different. I just don’t feel that learning this one language out of 44 would benefit me much except to chat with some people here in Accra, since no other countries in Africa speak it either, and I would soon forget it after returning to the U.S. I already have four other classes anyway: Global Connections with the former mayor, that is basically a way for us to learn more about the city of Accra and its relation to the rest of Ghana and the surrounding countries; Society, Culture, and Modernization in Ghana for my Anthropology major which is basically what the title implies; Black Diaspora at the University of Ghana, Legon which is a history of the Atlantic Slave Trade from an African perspective, which I have always been interested in learning; Music and Dance at Ashesi University where so far we have about an hour and a half devoted to the theory of African dance and then the last hour learning rhythm by playing instruments (bells, rattles, drums). We have not actually started dancing yet, which I am itching to begin, but our instructor insists on having us understand the theory and rhythms before we actually do the movements, so I guess I have to practice my patience that we are supposed to maintain while living here.

Lastly, I just thought I would let you know of a personal choice I made starting the second week here: to be vegetarian. I do not have a very strong reason for doing it, except mainly that the meat here has not been very appetizing and I have thought about becoming vegetarian for a long time as a healthier lifesyle. I decided it would be much easier to try it away from home, since I would not have to worry about insulting my parents by not eating many of their meals that include meat. I have a feeling I will not be able to maintain this eating pattern when I return to the United States, but for now I have not had trouble avoiding dishes with meat since the restaurants we eat at every night cater pretty well to vegetarians and on the weekends I tend to cook only vegetables anyway.

I feel like that is enough for now, since as I said before nothing major has happened in the past week, but I will really try to be more adamant about updating this blog so that each entry doesn’t end up this long. Thanks again for reading and I hope that I will have more good news next time. I miss you all so please keep in touch with your news as well!

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Getting settled in classes

Hello again, everyone! Today was the second day of my classes and I think I’ve finally gotten my schedule figured out, though it is still tentative for this week. I am for sure taking two classes at the NYU campus: Society, Culture, and Modernization in Ghana (which counts toward my Anthropology major) and Global Connections: Accra (which is taught by the former mayor of the city who will take us around and give us tours for some of the classes). I am most likely taking the language class, Twi, since it also gives us more information about the culture of Ghana along with the learning to speak the language. Plus the people here love it when you can speak some of their language to them, so I feel like I should at least try.

As for the classes at the other campuses, I am taking a history class at the University of Ghana called Black Diaspora, which basically talks about the Atlantic Slave Trade and the impacts it had on the African continent. It will be interesting to get an African perspective on it, so I’m excited for that class; also because the professor seems very knowledgeable about the subject and lectures very well. I love the campus of this university as well since it is huge and very natural looking with trees and plants everywhere, though it does not look fabricated like many campuses in the U.S. that look too perfect to be natural if you know what I mean. Anyway, I tried a class at Ashesi University today with a few other people called Africa in the International Setting, but none of us liked the professor because she treated us almost like we were in high school. There was too much focus on writing a thesis and a correctly formatted paper, and we are all sick of that since we had writing classes our first couple years. So instead I’m going to try out a dance class tomorrow morning and see if I like that; it will be nice to have something not academically challenging as my fifth class anyway since I don’t want to be overwhelmed, especially since I will also be doing community service.

Speaking of community service, I signed up for an autism organization for children where I will hopefully be working with autistic children and becoming more familiar with the disorder. I feel very passionate about it since Jacquie has been such a big part of my life and is very dear to me, so I want to make a difference in the lives of other children who suffer the same disorder she does because it makes me feel as though I am helping her too. This also reminds me of how I miss my family, though I do not feel as homesick as I used to since I am becoming accustomed to being away from home for long periods of time. Plus I am so blessed to have Daniella, one of my dearest friends, and other great people here that I am slowly getting to know that keep my mind off home. I feel much more acclimated here than I did when I first went to Florence, and I seem to get along with people much better too; but that might be because we were forced to constantly be together the first week of orientation. In any case, I am so thankful for the people I’ve met so far and am looking forward to spending the rest of the semester with them.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Adjusting to a New Culture

Sorry it has taken me so long to write; the internet connection here has not been ideal, plus the orientation schedule has kept us all extremely busy this week. I guess I left off on last Tuesday when we took the tour of the city with the former mayor (who is actually one of the NYU professors as well), so I'll continue with what I remember starting Wednesday.

We woke early again and left on our bus at 8:15am to visit Ashesi University, which is a small private school in Ghana that we are allowed to take a few classes at if we wish. I still have not decided if I am taking one there, but I'll get back to my tentative class schedule later. After receiving a short lecture on the aims of the school and touring around the three main buildings, we went back to the NYU Academic Center for a discussion on the "Cultural Do's and Don'ts" of Ghana which included using only our right hand to hand or receive things from people, not offering to go out with someone unless you intend to pay for him/her, and calling elders "Auntie" or "Uncle" as a sign of respect. It may take awhile to remember these customs and many more that were explained to us, but I feel that many Ghanaians are understanding of our cultural ignorance and are willing to help us feel at home here. Afterwards we took our first tour of the University of Ghana, Legon, where most students here are taking at least one class because there are so many offered. As opposed to the 400 students at Ashesi, Legon is a public school comprised of over 30,000 students and offers a much larger selection of classes. We spent a few hours there registering in their system, since everything unfortuately for us takes much longer to process here than in the U.S. (another aspect that we will be forced to get used to), though we had to return the next day to actually register for the particular classes we wanted to take.

Immediately after returning to the Academic Center, we had a quick discussion about our internet connection with the IT director that ended up being a waste of time, especially since we were all exhausted. We then we took a trip out to Koala market in Osu, a different part of town, where we chose from a selection of imported products that were mostly too expensive for our student budget, so we did not get much besides essentials like soap and laundry detergent, as well as pasta for Daniella and me to cook with this weekend. We discovered that we will probably have to return there for other necessities like olive oil, since the outdoor markets did not supply any, but otherwise I would prefer to do most of my shopping at the cheap outdoor markets where we can bargain for many of the products.

Dinner that night was at Tante Marie again where we were served more Ghanaian food like rice (the most important food here, I've discovered), some sort of stewed meat, salad, and banana crepes for dessert.

Thursday we were allowed an extra hour to sleep, since we did not leave until 9am for our Medical Care lecture followed by a meeting with most of the NYU professors that introduced themselves and which classes they will be teaching. We then had lunch at Ashesi University where we would be eating if we take classes there, and returned to our dormitories to rest until dinner at 7pm and Sunshine Salads. One of my favorite meals so far was that night since it was all Indian food with basmati rice, salad with chickpeas and other vegetables, a chickpea curry-like dish, samosas, and paneer. I am loving having these two restaurants as our meal plan for the semester, since not only do we get a variety of food, but most of it is delicious as well! So after dinner we were taken out by our CRA's to a bar for a couple hours where we had drinks and danced with Ghanaians, which was a lot of fun. This one Ghanaian guy danced with me twice, though he didn't really talk to me at all which I found strange; he simply gave me a quick hug after each song ended and walked away. I also got hit on a few times by this Ghanaian woman, which was very odd since homosexuality is very taboo here, and a man lectured us on important things to remember while in Ghana after we told him we were American. He also expressed his great love for America that we've noticed is prevalent throughout the country since Obama visited in July. There are still thousands of posters everywhere saying "Akwaaba (welcome) President Obama!" so in contrast to the indifference that we experienced in most of Europe, the people here love us for being Americans.

Okay, I realize that this post is getting too long, so I will try to make the last few days brief. Yesterday we woke and went to a national art museum, though unfortunately I was feeling pretty sick and could not stay for the tour, so I was taken back to visit the nurse and then go back to my dorm to rest for a few hours. Around 1pm I was feeling a bit better and so joined the group as they departed for the University of Ghana for the third time (since I forgot to mention we returned there Thursday to register for our classes) to get our ID cards, though to our dismay we discovered that we cannot get them until next week. So instead we waited on the bus as a few in our group still had to register for classes, and I started feeling pretty sick again from the bumpy ride and lack of food all day. We finally returned home around 4:30 and I ate a little bread before lying in bed for another few hours, missing dinner since I had no appetite, and then I managed to finally talk to my dad on my new Ghana phone. One of the CRA's had very nicely asked the restaurant to prepare a chicken soup for me, so I sipped on that with some rice until I started to feel much better. A few of us girls then decided to watch When Harry Met Sally downstairs in the common area, which was really fun and a nice relief after feeling miserable all day.

Lastly, today we were allowed to sleep in until 9am and spent a couple hours in a two markets that were a lot of fun because everyone was very excited we could speak a little of their language and we got to practice our bargaining skills. We also just got to see the busy center of Accra where everyone does their shopping and spends most of their day, so I am looking forward to going there more often. I am loving this country increasingly more the more I see of it and its people, so the idea of spending four months here is not as daunting as it seemed at the beginning. In fact I am extremely excited to become more acclimated here and to really understand and experience the everyday lives of Ghanaians, if not most of Africa, so that I know my time here will have been worth it. I will let you know of my schedule next week once I have decided exactly what classes I'm taking and what organization I will volunteer for, but for now thanks for reading and I hope I've given you a positive perspective on Ghana so far!

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Introduction to Africa

It is my second day in Ghana, and I am still exhausted from the long flights and jet-lag since leaving LAX Saturday evening. After bidding farewell to my family (especially the cats who I dearly wish I could take with me), I hopped in the car with my luggage and father who drove me to the the airport. We stopped on the way to get some sushi as my last meal in America and then arrived about two hours before my flight left for London Heathrow at 5:35pm, but to our dismay had to stand in line for 45 minutes just to leave my bags with security after checking them. I then managed to get through security in a record 20 minutes (for LAX, I mean) and found my gate just as it was beginning to board. The 10 hour flight was not as bad as I was expecting, since I spent most of it either watching movies on the individual screen provided or attempting to sleep (though uncomfortably), and plus I am quite used to long flights across the Atlantic by now after travelling to Europe many times.

Anyway, I got to London and waited until the gate appeared for the 7 hour flight to Accra, Ghana before making my way there and meeting up with my very good friend Daniella, who I was ecstactic to finally see after 6 weeks. We had reserved seats together on this plane and so passed the time catching up and watching movies together before we landed in Accra and met up with the rest of the NYU in Ghana group. After loading all our suitcases on top of and inside the bus that we now take everywhere, we drove to our dorms (I was changed from the larger one, Church Crescent to the smaller one called Solomon's Lodge) and were given a short tour before going out to get something to eat. We didn't get back to sleep until after 11pm (4pm CA time), so I had not properly slept in over 24 hours and was ready to pass out.

However, we had to be up early Monday morning so my roommate, Sarah, and I woke and showered, then joined the rest of our dorm-mates in the kitchen downstairs for a quick breakfast with a choice of: tea/coffee, yogurt, bread with jam and peanut spread (which is similar to peanut butter but not as sweet), cereal, and fruit juice.

We then started our strict orientation schedule that we have planned for the week beginning with a long discussion of safety and security while living here and a tour of the academic center (with refreshments in between!) and then a huge lunch of typical Ghanaian dishes like fried plantains, peanut soup with chicken, eggplant cooked in a tomato sauce, mashed up corn that was soaked in water for three days and then pounded, joloff rice, and a few other dishes that I can't quite remember. They all have Ghanaian names, but I have yet to learn and remember those as well.

That night we also had a large buffet of Ghanaian dishes at one of the restaurants where we have a meal plan three days ago called Tante Marie. The other is Sunshine Salads, where I will be eating tonight for the first time and onward every Tuesday and Thursday.

Today we woke even earlier to walk down to the Academic Center at 8am for a long lecture on the history of Ghana by one of the professors here who actually used to the be the mayor of Ghana, and then we were given a tour of the city on a bus that took us into the oldest section of Accra where we were allowed to get off and view where slaves were kept in dungeons before being shipped off the continent, as well as a view of the ocean. It was interesting to see all the poverty around the area and we felt like we were intruding since many people lived right where we were walking through, but our guide assured us that they live very openly and are more in awe of our appearance than annoyed. The children were all adorable though and ran after us waving as we boarded the bus and drove away.

We then returned to the Academic Center for a quick course on the Twi language, which I can tell will be difficult since it is not really similar to the romance languages, but I am looking forward to the challenge. After only a couple days here, I am beginning to fall in love with this entirely new culture that Ghana embodies and am excited to see more as time goes on.